A Reef History of Time

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It was morning, and work timings had unusually left me free for a couple of hours. That would normally mean the surf was onshore, or blown out, or flat or something, adhering as it usually does to the First Law of Surfing. But not today.

Blue Rinse
Today looked like a bleak, grey, midwinter day with (from a brief glimpse of the sea on the school run) a weak looking swell and the wind threatening to go onshore. But I had time. Time to take pictures. So I trawled along the coast looking for surf or seascape images, but found very little. Until I came to the reef. Which, oddly, seemed to be firing.

Fryer

 Several locals and some of the Aggy crew were making the most of a small day before the expected 'Hercules II' storm at the weekend.

An acceptable peak


Empty

Dan Joel
Mole getting critical
Captain Fryer on a set wave
A chill wind cut through the grey pall that hung over the break, warmed slightly by the relaxed atmosphere.
Styling


The most expensive legs on the reef
Then the tide turned and the sets started picking up, throwing heavier barrels just as the sun started to peek through rapidly parting clouds. Blue sky was visible, what perfect timing!  But a quick look at my watch told me that, Yes, everything falling into place was just the First Law's way of telling me it was time to go.




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