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Showing posts with the label secret spot

Porth Emmet

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I came across this fantastic beach a while ago, and thought it was very much worth the effort of finding it again. Rumour has it that when decent sized surf hits, from exactly the right direction through the narrow swell window, a mystical A-frame peaks and then peels down both sides of the far rocks you can see in the picture below. Apparently it's an easy take-off and a guaranteed barrel whichever way you choose to go. Find out more about this wonderful beach here : http://thisisnotcornwall.co.uk/porthemmet/ Return to Ocean-Image.com

Drive to surf wipeouts

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It's always the same - the drive to the surf is faster, more focused, and more stressful than the post-surf meander home. On the way you're amping to music, eager to get in the water and the road always seems to be full of the slowest and worst drivers on earth. Even when it's howling onshore mush, as it was on a recent jaunt to the south coast of Devon, surfers are just so super keen to surf'. Arriving rapidly in the car park for a surf, a touch on the brakes saw this vehicle slide down a waterlogged field and into a hedge, causing 'about two grand's worth of damage' according to the driver. Despite this hefty dent to vehicle, pride and wallet, he simply suited up and ran down to the beach with a smile on his face! Not sure if this mess was worth the smile, and freezing cold to boot, though some inside wedges were peeling away nicely. This little secret spot, a pre-visit internet discovery, dished up some interesting lefts, with a half decent looking bommie...