Tom Bawcock's Eve

This article appears in the December issue of Cornwall Today magazine 
if you want to see it in its full technicolour design glory.

Tom Bawcock’s Eve

A merry place you may believe,

Was Mouzel 'pon Tom Bawcock's Eve

It's December 23^rd, very nearly Christmas, ‘Just two more sleeps, so exciting!’ as my four year old informs me, at half past three in the morning. Later that day, in the warmth of the Ship Inn, Mousehole, glasses chink and holiday conversations flow. Outside, families stroll around the picturesque harbour, absorbing the village's famous lights as they twinkle in the gathering winter darkness. It’s a picture perfect portrait of a Cornish seaside village at Christmas. But there’s something more in the pub today, a subtle undercurrent of expectation, a buzz in the air, a reason the pub is so densely packed. Oddly, the pub bell rings out quite soon after sunset, and a hush quickly spreads through the pub’s warren of nooks and crannies. A heavy bass voice booms into the silence, ‘The Pie....’, it proclaims, ‘....Is ready!’.

 

The pie in question is of course, StarGazey Pie, a dish baked with seven sorts of fish to commemorate the feat of local fisherman Tom Bawcock, whose massive haul saved the village from starvation while others were harbour bound by a lengthy storm. A tradition potentially dating back to the 1600's, the history surrounding Tom Bawcock's Eve is purely oral and consequently decidedly misty. There are several stories circulating, each slightly embellished. At the bar my favourite was 'It was invented by a canny pub landlord to start Christmas early'. Whatever the reason, crowds have arrived, determined to enjoy the tradition and, as the song goes ‘To sup on sib’m sorts o' fesh’. 

 

Rob and Mel Matthews run the pub, preparing it for their second Bawcock's Eve with their staff since the early morning. Having met 30 years ago they previously ran a hotel and wine bar in the Cotswolds, then a succession of pubs including the Godolphin Arms at Marazion before accepting management roles at the Ship Inn. The pub's innate charms appealed, says Mel, as it felt ‘Very comfortable and familiar’.

Barney Farnworth is queuing expectantly for a piece of the pie. Has he been before? ‘It’s my twentieth time’ he says, ‘I know, because I’m twenty’. His Dad has been thirty times, bringing Barney down from Falmouth every year, sometimes with friends in a bus hired for the occasion.

Obviously one important pie, the burden of creating this uniquely Cornish delicacy has fallen on the capable shoulders of Chef Tracey Bleach, for the last six years. She is immediately forthcoming with the ingredients ‘Cod, Pollack, Ling, Sole, Haddock, Pilchard, Whiting' but remains guarded about the sauce, 'A secret traditional recipe of herbs and spices’. Although other pubs make a similar pie,' Only those made at the Ship Inn can be a true StarGazey Pie' she says. 

This year Tracey is stepping aside to let ex-Navy chef Gavin Matthews do the baking. Born and bred in Penzance, Gavin served Admirals as far away as Albania before returning to work in St Ives and spend more time with his family. This will be the first time he's baked the pie, 'In fact, the first time I’ve even tasted it!’

Four hours of baking later, the pastry, iconic fish and stars (to guide sailors safely home) are delicately placed on top to finesse it. Despite pressure from the number of people waiting outside the kitchen, Gavin works on, unfazed, even becoming eloquent about the tradition's attraction ‘It’s a celebration of fish, fishing, the sea, Cornish spirit, the small fisherman and community spirit’, he says, ‘And also the Cornish love a celebration.’

 

Baked and golden, with perfectly placed fish and stars, the StarGazey Pie is paraded around the pub before dishing up. This honour falls to Mousehole born and bred fisherman Jonathan 'Guns' Madron, who quips 'I haven't lived here all my life, I ain't dead yet'. Dressed as Tom Bawcock, in traditional smock and bowler hat, Guns securely grasps the huge pie and weaves through a dense throng of mobile phone paparazzi to the sound of cheers and camera flashes.

There’s a long queue because it’s 'Very, very tasty' 'Good, as always!' and given away free, or rather for a donation to the RNLI. As Barney says 'It's delicious every year!'

Around the harbour and onto the beach, a colourful lantern procession of fish, stars and pies made by Mousehole school children is accompanied by Mousehole Male Voice Choir. The catchy accordion tune backs the words, as true now as whenever the tradition started . . . ‘A merry place you may believe, Was Mouzel 'pon Tom Bawcock's Eve’.

And only two more sleeps to Christmas!

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