Unsurprisingly, the Canary Isles are mostly dry and sun-drenched, set, as they are, on a similar latitude to the Sahara Desert. And perhaps a perfect holiday destination for a surfing Brit since their location just off the coast of Africa attracts all north Atlantic swells. As a soubriquet 'The Hawaii of Europe' is thus well earned, though these volcanic islands are less lush than their Pacific brethren, having had their last eruption a mere 300 years ago. From a choice of seven larger islands - Lanzarote, Fuerteventura, Gran Canaria, Tenerife, La Gomera, La Palma and El Hierro, long time surf buddy Clyde and I picked the easternmost island, Lanzarote, which, I was told, had been an entirely dry and perfectly sun-drenched destination for the past two years. Until, of course, the day we touched down under dark storm clouds and pouring rain. Mind you, we had landed in Fuerteventura.
For a run down of the following seven complex, misery inducing, lost surf opportunity hours getting from the wrong island to the one where our hire car and accommodation were, read surf journo
Alex Wade's dissection of the culprit,
Ryan Despair.
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| Famara under a cloud |
Eventually winding our way to Famara in the north west of Lanzarote, via some spectacular views (through the drifting mist clouds) from the
Mirador del Rio, we were met by ex pat Brit and accommodation man, Mark Jenkins of
Surf Lanzarote. Quizzed about the unusual weather, and drawing heavily on his 16 years of island living and wider travel knowledge, he summed it up in one succinct sentence, saying simply: 'It's the curse of Mike Newman'.
It could all have gone really wrong at this point, until I realised he was referring to the last time I'd come over, ten years ago, to shoot photos for his website. I'd arrived in a storm back then too. Important events must be rare here for island memories to be so long! Over a beer we discussed the possibility of it also being my fault that the surf on the entire island was junk that day, until we discovered a little right hand gem, right in front of our apartment.
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| Nice discovery under the cloud |
Both weather and surf improved dramatically as the clouds cleared and the swell came up for the next few days. The lava spills which form the reefs point in every possible direction, so somewhere will always be working. After checking swell, wind and map, it's just a matter of finding it.
Being only 37 miles long, nowhere is far on Lanzarote, though mostly we just walked up the point to a left hander which was rarely crowded. Several hours of a bowly takeoff, followed by a long wall, in 16 degree water and 26 degree sunshine put a very positive twist on proceedings. Especially if you drove through to the next bowl, called off the body boarders hanging in the lip and tucked up for a barrel through the shallow end section.
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| Smiles all round |
Crystal clear water underfoot showed you the sharp reef and urchins you'd be dragged across if you f##ked it up though.
As our island knowledge improved we scored great surf again and again, relaxing with a few Estrella beers of an evening outside Esquina Maria cafe watching the footy (a Barcelona/Madrid grudge match) with some excitable locals. However a trip to the other side of the island to visit Alex Wade, who was staying with his two boys at the
Lanzarote Eco Retreat , showed us a finer side to the island.
At first glance a seemingly random collection of black stone cottages, Mongolian yurts and villas, the Retreat is in fact a very well designed, fully solar and wind powered resort, with an intriguing eco discovery round every bend of its winding paths. Palm trees and pools emerge between secluded apartments, over here a giant chess set or trampoline, over there a hidden shop or maybe some chickens and just behind you, even a rescue donkey for the kids to find.
Built by husband and wife team Michelle and Tila Braddock, whose son
Josh competes on the
UKPST Surf Tour, it is like an oasis at the end of a hot day. For two hungry surfers it was a real pleasure to find an oversize Paella on offer, washed down to good effect with the requisite Sangria and accompanied by some chill sounds from the live music.
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| More smiles |
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| Street sounds in Teguise |
The landscape is one of contrasts, the dark black outlines of high, seemingly barren, volcanoes conflicting with the cool blues of the sea, especially at Orzola where the white sand reflects light back through the waves.
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| This is Clyde. He is smiling |
A trip with
Blackstone Tours around the craters and blow holes of the volcanoes, the whole vista baking in the sun like a blasted section of Tolkein's Orc-infested Middle Earth, gave us an insight into the geological machinations that created the points and reefs we'd just been surfing. Guide and business owner Jose Luis kept us involved with his infectious enthusiasm for the subject and knowledge of the islands. Driving back to base at sunset, we passed the serried patterns of the zocos, the semi-circular windbreaks built from black rock to protect grape vines from the wind, and sculptures by Lanzarote's most famous artist,
Cesar Manrique.
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| Jose guarding us from Orcs |
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| Life gets a grip |
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The surf continued to play ball for us, although one or two those 'locals only' type locals tried a trick or two to depress our surf requirements. Considering the amount of surf travel miles under our collective belts, Clyde and I had at least a trick or three to thwart them with, and frequently surfed alone.
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| Well, now |
A stormy swell and a cross shore wind meant that
El Quemao, in all it's Pipeline-like glory, failed to fire, but we surfed excellent waves elsewhere on this trip. Outside of the undoubtedly quality surf here, if you have a palate for quality food, head to
La Cantina in the island's old capital town, Teguise. The constant stream of inventive Tapas, exotic chef-designed beers and a cool glass of Lanzarote wine has to be one of the best meals I've ever had.
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| pic courtsey La Cantina |
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| Lanzarote - Nice |
The effects of my curse failed to stop us leaving the island on our scheduled flight unfortunately, as the last day was clean, six foot and glassy. Great surf twice a day for the entire trip (apart from the first day), mid winter sunshine, and fabulous food - I hope to go back and be cursed again.
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