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Finally ! Some swell rolled in today, and the beaches were humming with sighs of relief from the surfing population at large. And it did seem that they were all at large, or at least at the beach that I went to. Don't these people have jobs to go to? Towards the end of my session, a cross section of local talent gathered on a small peak and proceeded to rip it to bits. Tom Lowe, Jayce Robinson (above) and Jack Whitefield traded the punchy short rides (read close-outs) with Bert Wright, Michael Lay and Ben Vavrecka.

Ben was on top form considering it was his first time back in the water in a long while, putting in some serious vertical re-entries on his backhand. I managed to get back for a quick half hour shoot before everyone got out, check out the shots here : http://ocean-image.com/Spring_Swell_g275.html

I can only say that finally getting a wave was a really great feeling, even after only a two week layoff. Fully stoked. Imagine though, that you had an enforced layoff for six months, or even a year ? After some dicey might-work/might-paralyse-you type vertebra fusing surgery last year, this post-operative Surf Scribe is battling towards a point where the medics will allow him to finally get back in the surf. The frustration must be enormous, but, looking on the positive side - imagine how stoked he'll be when he catches his first wave again !

Return to Ocean-Image.com

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