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Well, hello again ! Things have been afoot in the Ocean-Image house in the way of trips abroad, commssioned work and, as usual, surfing. The winter has been pretty kind to us, with plenty of swell hitting the Cornish shores. What's great about winter is that the swell gets big enough to light up some of the more secluded spots. This winter I've surfed several of the rarer breaks (which obviously I can't name) and, even after 25 years of surfing in the Penwith area, I managed to surf two amazing, peeling, barreling right hand reef breaks for the first time. It's not that I didn't know about them, it's just that they need a very particular swell direction, a certain (massive) size of swell, and a certain state of tide - not all always possible in the short dalyight hours.



I was reminded of all this classic swell whilst surfing some lamentably small peelers this morning at a break called **** spot *** name***deleted***for***your***safety**** by artist and sculptor Jonty Henshall. It was small, but sunny, blue and otherwise classic, and made me think of this day at Godrevy, also sunny, blue and classic.



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Anonymous said…
Love the tilt-shift on that shot
March 9, 2010 at 4:53 PM
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