First Law of Surfing

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I was out on a shoot last week, which just happened to be at a secret spot which only works once in a blue moon. It was a rare sunny, blue sky winter's day with a light offshore breeze grooming the swell perfectly onto a cranking A frame bank. Of course, I had no time to go in, stopping only to grab this picture before sadly driving away, crushed, under the cursed weight of the First Law of Surfing.


The First Law of Surfing states simply, that :

The size and quality of the surf will be inversely proportional to your ability to get to it.

In other words; busy all day with no window of opportunity ? It'll be six foot and going off.
Got the day off and time to search for a decent wave? Blown out two foot mush everywhere you look! Oh well, at least I got a picture this day......

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